Now, if you don't know the method for Ural / Dnepr carb balancing I had better tell you as it is crucial to smooth running and reliability, more Urals have popped because of this than anything else. It is a much more accurate method than any other. Warm the bike up, 10 miles at least, put it on the main stand and run the engine in top gear, lock the throttle with a clamp so that the speeedo reads 45-50mph and short out one cylinder with a screwdriver or remove the plug cap, if the engine dies then open the carb on the cylinder that wasn't shorted out using the throttle cable adjuster. Then repeat this procedure on the other cylinder. You are aiming for the bike running evenly and at the same speed which ever cylinder is shorted out. This method relies on the spark plugs being in good order -don't mess around, buy new ones (........Charles)
Now adjust the slow running tick over screws to finish the the job, this method is more accurate that stethoscopes, vaccum gauges or bits of rubber pipe so don't go wasting your money. The later Karburettorskis are pretty good, but if you had earlier ones like me, get Mikunis or Amals and make up adaptor plates to get them to fit.

 A Ural head is symetrical front to back, if you mount it in a milling machine, you can mill out a recess for a second sparkplug that corresponds to the original plug position. Beware of the oil drain channel though, it is easy to mill through this ( as I did) then tap it to take a spark plug. Now with your two TWO plug heads fitted, you need two twin spark coils fitted to the bike ( I used some off a 4 cylinder Kawasaki), the positive ends of the coils are wired together to the original connection and the two negative or CB ends are wired to the points, so that the coils are running in parallel, use as big a condenser as possible as the points are now switching twice the current.
The image shows the head of an M63.

You'll find that the emissions improve, starting improves, torque increases and you can even jet the carb down a bit, although thats getting carried away, as maybe I should be..... 

 Don't let the fact that Urals / Dneprs cannot fit fork assemblies from other machines. I fitted a Honda S/Dream wheel, brake caliper and hydraulic brake lever, for less than 70.00 squid. It even came with a decent Metzler.

 If you have a welding torch, spanners and no social life, read further. First go down to your local bike breaker and look over the Honda S/Dreams, there should be loads of these as they can't give them away now. Get the wheel, braking assembly, lever et al.Next get some 20mm internal diameter tubing to make your spacers and new bearings to fit the Honda wheel and the Ural spindle. 42mm x 20mm from your bearing factor ( Yellow pages). Knock ye old bearings out and make a 20mm sleeve to go in between the two new bearings, exactly the same length as the sleeve you took out. Put the wheel in the forks on the spindle and make two more sleeves to locate the wheel and disc exactly, the disc wants to be @ 6mm / 1/4" from the fork tube. Next source some thick plate 12mm or so to make a lug which you will weld to the fork tube.

Tack weld it in place first, get someone to squeeze the brake lever and this will hold the lug in place if you fit the caliper on to the lug, then dismantle the fork leg to stop the seals blowing out when you weld it proper. Make a good weld without too much heat as it will distort the accurately made fork tube. I used a cheap arc welder at 120A with E6013 rods. Reassemble the forks with fresh oil, I use hydraulic fluid as it's cheap. If you have 1" bars you will have to file the brake lever bracket to fit, mine are 7/8" bars anyway. Bleed the system and road test it. Then check the tightness of the bolts and fastners after a few miles- things do settle down.

As a solo rider ( They all race off ahead of me......) I had neglected to cover sidecars ( unless it rains) However Mick Monk queried what I did last time I got my hands on a sidecar outfit -that didn't include a sledge hammer at some point- so I include tis diagram and some words of dubious wisdom

 You will need floorboards, broom handles, penetrating oil and string ( You do get a Blue Peter Badge after the Coronary you will suffer over this one.) Hose down all the adjuster bolts and threads with the penetrating oil the night before
Set the outfit on a flat area of concrete so you can see what you are doing, set the camber of the bike first using broom handles strapped to the wheels with sticky tape, using the downward pointing sidecar tie rods, then using bricks and string -like a builder uses a plumb line building a wall- against the wheels, set the toe-in, this is important as it affects front line stability and tyre wear so adjust it and then road test the bike AND CHECK IT AGAIN!
Finally, to finish the job, you change the spark plugs, if you're Charles
To make a better job of your handling, you can fit leading link forks to your bike from any of the reputable and trustworthy dealers ( stop laughing..now )listed on our links page who will be only too willing to advise you...on parting with your money.....
Taper roller steering head bearings will also make a difference and are easier to fit, don't listen to the bollocks that the bearing dealer tells you, they are available and at a reasonable price.